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Pigments in the Landscape

Last time we talked about the physics and chemistry of pigments, both natural and synthetic, and how they come to have the colors that we value. This time we’re going to discuss natural earth and mineral pigments, their origins, and their mineral and chemical composition.

The Altamira cave bison paintings date from 20,000 years BCE. The ancient artists used ochre and hematite-containing clays for the red, yellow and brown tones, and charcoal for the black lines. Reproductions at the Museo del Mamut, Barcelona 2011. Photo by Thomas Quine. This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.

Natural earth pigments are, according to archaeologists, some of the earliest pigments used for art by humans. The earliest paintings known included paints made from earth pigments, and charcoal. Earth pigments are, in their simplest form, soil that lacks organic matter, composed of mixtures of minerals, some of which confer color to the mixture. Soil can be classified by its mineral composition and its particle size, with clay being much smaller than (for example) sand particles. Clays are generally formed in river beds, with the action of flowing water grinding the mineral particles down to tiny sizes. But massive clay deposits, relics of ancient water bodies, are found in rocks on dry land as well. The earliest artists used naturally occuring clay of varying colors as the basis for their pigments, as the fine grains of clay are best for making smooth, regular pigment powders that can be mixed with binders or dispersants to make paints.

The clay deposits found in Roussilon, France, were a major source of ocher pigments in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Photo by “BlueBreezeWiki.” This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

The bulk of the material in earth pigments is not the actual mineral that confers the color. The deposits of colorful clay that ancient and modern artists use come from the erosion of rocks into tiny particles, and reflect the origin and chemical composition of the original rocks. For the most part, these are mostly varying degrees of black or white or even crystalline and clear. Take a look at your beach sand. If your beach sand comes from the erosion of mixed continental rocks, you will see individual bits of clear quartz, or black or gray bits of other kinds of rock, mixed in with a few brightly colored grains of minerals. If your beach sand comes from fresh(ish) lava deposits, it could be very black. If your sand comes from coral reefs or limestone, it may be bright white. The famous pink sand beaches in Bermuda are mostly pure white grains of calcium carbonate from coral reefs, with a few bright red shells of a particular foraminiferan (a microorganism that makes a red calcium carbonate shell). If you were to clean and dry and grind Bermuda sand to the consistency of clay, you would have a pale pink pigment powder. Most of the naturally occurring earth pigments are similar sorts of mixtures; a ground of silicate-containing mineral rocks of no particular color, with bright mineral additives. Some synthetic pigments are made this way; a colorless natural earth is doped with a brightly colored synthetic mineral, so that it behaves similarly to a natural earth when used in pigments.

The most common and robust colors in natural earths are of course the reds and yellows and browns. These colors almost all come from various forms of iron oxide, complexed with water and oxygen in various ways that result in different shades, and mixed of course with the background material. Iron is quite abundant in the universe, as it is the heaviest element that can be made by the nuclear reactions of a normal star. To make larger elements requires a supernova explosion, and those are rather rare. So it is no surprise to see the familiar colors of rust and earth pigments in the canyons of Mars, the ice sheets of Europa, and the craggy surface of distant Pluto. Metallic iron, combined with water, leads to the familiar rust, which is one kind of iron oxide. Other iron oxides are formed through geological processes, involving heat or pressure or exposure to oxidixing chemicals other than water.

Purple sand at Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur, also contains a black magnetic ferrous mineral. Fun stuff!

The mineral that gives yellow ocher its color is called limonite (not surprisingly). It is a hydrated iron oxide, which means the iron oxide (plain old rust) is complexed with water in a more or less permanent way that changes the electronic structure of the metal to change its absorption spectrum. The red in natural pigments often comes from hematite, which is an anhydrous (lacking water) iron oxide. Some hematites look purple (as in the sand at Pfeiffer Beach, in Big Sur), but it is the same mineral, and a feature of the grain size causes the red to have a purplish tone. Grinding the sand down to clay size may, sadly, eliminate the purple. Green colors in some natural earths come from iron in a different oxidation state, complexed with magnesium and aluminum, in minerals like celedonite (also, not surprisingly named).

Historically, natural clays found in the landscape were used by artists for pigments, giving each their local flavor. When trade began moving materials long distances across the Earth, pigments went with them. Desirable colors found in deposits in particular locations the world have become standards. For example, clay deposits found near the city of Siena or the region of Umbria in Italy have given their names to the colors that derive from their pigment powders. Sienna and Umber pigments have more manganese oxides than ocher pigments, leading to darker colors. Heating sienna and umber pigments causes some of the iron oxides to dehydrate, further darkening their color and leading to burnt sienna or burnt umber.

Naturally occuring colored clay is not the only way to obtain a natural mineral pigment, however. Certain minerals that occur in interesting colors and in large enough deposits can be ground finely to make a pigment directly. These minerals generally originate from infrequent and inconveniently located geological processes, deep in the earth. Making them available for use on the surface requires uplift of the regions where they occurred, and erosion to expose them, and perhaps even mining into the earth to find them. Frequently these situations occur in the high mountains of the world, where uplift and erosion can be ongoing processes in the present.

The most precious pigment used in Europe in the ancient world and the middle ages – more expensive than gold! – was ultramarine, made from finely-ground bits of the semiprecious stone lapis lazuli. Lapis lazuli is a metamorphic rock (meaning, transformed by temperatures or pressures deep in the earth) found in several places around the world, but most importantly in the mountains of Afghanistan. Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan traveled very far in the ancient and prehistoric world, with ancient examples of lapis beads found in west Africa, and famously on the coffin of the pharoah Tutankhamen. The mineral that gives lapis lazuli its lovely blue color is called lazurite. The rock itself is often found with inclusions of pyrite (a shiny, gold or brassy iron mineral). The blue itself comes from a particular ionic state of sulfur. Burning sulfur in an oxygen atmosphere can produce blue flames (don’t do this). Another place you can see blue sulfur is erupting from the famous sulfur volcanoes of Jupiter’s moon Io. Iozurite, a blue pigment similar to lapis lazuli, may be a very precious AEP product of the far future.

Green malachite and blue azurite are found in this rock from Arizona.
Photo by Robert Lavinsky. This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

As you can imagine, from ancient times people have ground up interesting colored rocks and minerals to try and make pigments (at this point I should caution you not to grind up the gorgeous blue-green serpentine rocks of central California as this could be hazardous; the fibrous minerals are similar to asbestos). The ancients were familiar with the bright green mineral malachite as a copper ore: heating malachite over a hot fire causes it to break down and release the copper metal. But they also ground malachite to make a green pigment. Malachite is found in the deposits of ancient limestone caves, where mineral rich water ran over the calcium carbonate, producing reactions that precipitated the mineral into a solid. Deposits of malachite in the Fertile Crescent supplied the ancient world with copper for making bronze, but malachite is found in many places around the world. Malachite sometimes occurs alongside azurite, also a copper mineral, which is a bright blue. Azurite was also used as a pigment (like ultramarine, it is rare and expensive). Turquoise is another mineral rock whose blue color comes from copper, and whose formation involves the weathering of rocks (igneous, rather than carbonate). Deposits of turquoise are found in many places and it is one of the most important gemstones worldwide. Turquoise can be ground to make pigment, but it is more precious than malachite so this was rare.

Of course, artists have never been limited in the colors they use by what they can dig up from the ground. Next time we’ll talk more about organic pigments, derived from biological materials, and their origins.

Thank you for joining us as we do Pandemic Projects, meant to keep you energized, curious and learning!

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Old Dog, New Tricks

Old Dog, New Tricks

Our ten year old miniature Aussie, (known here as The Disreputable Dog), is as puzzled by the effects of the pandemic as are the people. He is having a hard time with this weekend that never ends. All his people are home, but the Saturday / Sunday routine is not being followed! This is causing anxiety! And the mail and delivery people are constantly around the neighborhood and must be barked at. Clearly he needs some new activities. A canine Pandemic Project!

Of course he is of herding dog heritage, so one of the things we thought of first was agility competition! In agility competitions, dogs run through an obstacle course with poles to weave through, gates to jump over, ramps to climb, etc. There is specialized equipment you need – however, there are things that you can build. We had a number of PVC bits and pieces left over from a previous plumbing project, so building some new agility course structures was a simple matter of doing some research on the Internet, one trip to the hardware store, and some quality time with the tabletop circular saw.

We decided to build a two-level gate, out of 1 1/4″ PVC pipe, and a pole-weaving course out of 3/4″ pipe. We just stuck the pipe segments into the fittings without gluing them, to make it easy to disassemble and store or transport the gadgets. For the pole course, we will probably drill some holes through the fittings into the pipes and put some machine screws in there to keep the poles straight up and down, but for the most part this isn’t necessary. And, if we have an irrigation emergency that requires PVC fittings … they’re already here! Just kidding. Mostly. Finally, we had a folding ramp that we use to get the dog in and out of tall truck beds: with a support under the hinge it becomes a ^ shaped ramp.

Then of course we had to introduce the Disreputable Dog to his new toys. He immediately assumed that they were obstacles to be cirumnavigated, which he did, at speed. Well done. But no. Some training is necessary.

With considerable nudging from knee and lead, he made it through the weave course. Frankly, we don’t think he quite understands how that is supposed to work just yet. Maybe we’ll get him to watch some videos on Youtube.

The jump was a bit easier. We started him off on the low setting for now, should be a piece of cake. We’ll set it to the higher height later. First try? Around! No, wait, try again … over! Excellent form.

The ramp, however, he already knew what to do: after completing the jump, run at full speed to the ramp, then up to the peak, turn right and leap off into the air! Once again, Dog, your ability to make up new rules for the game is impressive. Most impressive.

Second time was more the charm, but he still is jumping off early. He considers it inefficient. It will take him longer to return to the starting point if he runs all the way down! Who would do that?

After a few more runthroughs of this short course, it’s time to take a break. Can’t have all the fun at once!

Did you say … TREAT?

Thank you for joining us as we do Pandemic Projects, meant to keep you energized, curious and learning!

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We’re Jammin’

Hope you like jammin’ too …

Ooh yeah, we’re jammin’, hey

To think that jammin’ was a thing of the past

We’re jammin’, we’re jammin’

And I hope this jam is gonna last

Bob Marley

We’re basically Midwesterners, so canning and preserving is a fundamental brainstem function for us. But more than this – we’ve been driven to it by necessity, as we can’t keep up with the amount of fruit our trees produce. But, anyone can do this; it’s creative and fun and you get to put up some jars of yummy stuff for the winter. Let’s make some jam!

In this tutorial we’ll describe the basics of how to make a cooked, processed jam from fresh fruit. This is perhaps the most complicated way to do jam. There are simpler methods, and those that require fewer special things, but if you can do this method you can do all of them.

For this method, you’re going to need some stuff. In addition to the jam ingredients (fruit, granulated sugar, pectin powder), you’ll need jars, lids and rings (about $10 for a dozen pint sized jars at the supermarket or hardware store), a big stock pot that’s deep enough to boil the jars in with a couple inches of water on top, and a smaller (but still big) pot to cook your jam down in. Other things that can help tremendously but aren’t required are a canning funnel (it has a wide neck for pouring jam into jars), and a canning tongs (it’s got an odd shape but has coated wire for grabbing jars out of boiling water safely). Special “processing pots” for canning are really big and have a basket that sits inside for easily pulling out jars. You will want all this stuff if you end up doing a lot of canning, but you don’t need to acquire it all at once, and if you’re just doing small amounts you can easily make do with tools you already have in the kitchen.

Start with fresh fruit – not too ripe, or it won’t set as well.

This year, strawberries came early to this county, so we’re going to describe how to make a batch of strawberry jam. The moves are going to be the same for different fruits, but you’ll use different amounts of fruit and sugar and maybe other ingredients depending on exactly what you’re canning. One thing we strongly recommend is to use the ‘less sugar’ recipes listed on the instructions in a “pink box” package of Sure-Jell pectin. We like to taste our fruit and its tartness and not to be overwhelmed by sugary sweetness.

Washed lids and rings ready for canning. The red wand has a magnet on the end that makes it easy to handle lids.

Before you begin, you’ll have to wash your jars, rings, and lids. The lids have a rubber seal on the inside that works best when it’s softened a bit, so when you’re ready to jar your jam you should put the clean lids in hot water to warm the seal up.

Measure out your sugar, pectin and fruit, and have it all ready to go at once.

Now to the fruit. To do a batch of 8 to 10 8 ounce (half pint) jars of jam, you need around 12 cups of whole strawberries (at least five baskets), one packet of pink box Sure-Jell pectin powder, and 4 cups of granulated sugar (cane sugar is best). We like relatively early fruit – there’s a balance here between the full flavor of ripe fruit, and the better setting power and tartness of less than fully ripe fruit. A whole batch of wholly ripe fruit will not set well and might have a cloying flavor. A mix is good. Wash the fruit very well, cut off the green parts and any bad spots, and dice the fruit into 1/2 inch pieces (this isn’t critical – you can have smaller or bigger pieces if you like, so long as you can fit them into the jars). When they’re chopped they should make something like 8 cups of fruit (so this should tell you how big your cooking pot should be – like 12 cups or bigger). Mix together the packet of pectin and 1/4 cup of the sugar you have already measured, then put that mix into your cooking pot with the diced strawberries, and mix well. Mash the strawberries a bit with a potato masher to macerate them and release some of their juice.

Now it’s time to cook the jam. Have the rest of your sugar at hand, and a kitchen timer that can give you an accurate measurement of one minute. Put in a teaspoon or so of butter if you like – this will help reduce frothing in the jam. On high heat, bring the fruit / pectin mixture to a full rolling boil – this means, the boiling doesn’t stop when you stir the mixture. This means the whole volume of the mixture is at the boiling point. Then, add the rest of your sugar (3 3/4 cups), and stir it in well. Once again, keep stirring and bring the mixture back to a full rolling boil. when it has reached the full rolling boil, start your timer and boil for exactly one minute more. Then turn off the burner and remove the pot from the heat. Congratulations: you’ve made jam. At this point, as it cools, the jam will set into the familiar jam texture. However, you’d like to keep some for later – so your’e going to have to can it in jars and process it to prevent any spoilage. This should be done quickly while the jam is still hot!

You’re going to need to have enough boiling water in your canning pot to cover your jars by an inch or two. Make sure you’ve got that going before you fill your jars. You will probably need to process more than one batch of jars, so depth is more important than width in this case. Important note: everything is going to be hot. Be careful. Getting boiling jam on your skin is painful and could cause burns (also, tasty when it cools).

Fill the jars using a ladle or spoon and the canning funnel if you have it. You’re going to need to allow some headspace between the top of the jam and the lid – for this recipe it’s about 1/4 inch, but other recipes might need more headspace. Be sure and check your recipe. Check the rim of the jar and the threads, they should be free of jam. Use a damp paper towel to clean them off if necessary. Jam on the rim of the jar could prevent a good seal. Jam on the threads could stick the ring. Place the lid on, then the ring, and tighten finger tight (not too much).

This is a big processing pot with a basket that lets you do a lot of jars at once.

When you’ve filled enough jars to fill your processing pot, pop them into the boiling water, wait for the water to boil again, set your timer (15 minutes for this jam, but it could be 10-30 minutes depending on what you are canning). While you’re waiting for the first batch to process, you can fill the next set of jars.

When the timer goes off you can pull your jars out! If you don’t have a canning tongs you can use barbecue tongs, or silicone mitts, or a ladle – just remember the jars will be boiling hot. It helps to carefully wipe off any standing water on the top of the lid (to prevent deposits). Most of the time, as the jars cool, you will here a pop or ping sound as the lids contract and stick down to the rim to seal the lid.

Let the jars cool. Test the jars by pressing down on the center of the lid. If it moves (pops down), the jar did not set properly, and it won’t keep. If the lid is already down, you have successfully preserved the jam. It will stay good for up to 18 months. You will notice that the hot jam is still liquid – even after it cools it will take days to set, so don’t worry if your jam seems runny, just be patient and it will be fine. When you open a jar of jam, you will need to eventually discard the lid – the seals can only be used once – but you can save the jars and rings to use again and again. Some of our jars and rings have seen ten seasons of use.

This basic procedure can be used for any number of jams: the differences between them will be the amount of fruit or sugar or pectin or other additives (like lemon juice) which will depend on the type of fruit and so forth. You can look at the directions in your packet of pectin, or you can refer to other authorities (our canning guru is Esther H. Shank, author of Mennonite Country-Style Recipes, which is an amazing cookbook includes recipes and guidelines for canning almost anything you can imagine). You don’t always need pectin to set jam or marmalade, sometimes additional cooking is all you need (but be careful or you might accidentally make candy). But something like this is how people in America have saved summer fruits and vegetables for the winter, for centuries. And as Bob Marley observed, jammin’ is not a thing of the past. Enjoy!

Thank you for joining us as we do Pandemic Projects, meant to keep you energized, curious and learning!

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The Science of Pigments

What Are Pigments? And what (and why) is color?

What are pigments? At Ancient Earth Pigments, we deal with pigments as powdered solids that are used as the coloring agents of paints or for other color-conferring purposes. But what is the origin of the colors pigments exhibit? A more scientific and general definition of a pigment is a substance that selectively absorbs light in the visible waveband. When you illuminate something containing a pigment with light, some is absorbed, some might pass through, and some of the light bounces back to your eyeballs. It is the selective nature of the absorption that gives rise to what we perceive as color: a pigment that absorbs all colors of light equally will look gray (or black), when illuminated by white light. If a pigment absorbs blue light, it could look yellow or red, because those colors are not absorbed. If it absorbs red light it could look blue, or blue-green. When you mix colored paints, you combine the absorption properties of the different pigments to yield new colors. White pigments are a special case – they don’t selectively absorb colors, in fact they reflect light very efficiently without absorption, which is why they will lighten color mixes – returning more white light to your eyes.

The color of the ocean (title picture) serves to highlight this well. Pure water is blue, because it absorbs red light. If you add plants to the water, it looks more green. The ocean near tropical beaches have a bright turqoise color because the blue color is modulated by the calcium carbonate white sand suspended in the water.

But how do pigments work, and what is absorption of light, really? To understand this it helps to think of light – or electromagnetic energy in general – as a stream of individual photons, where each photon is a little packet of energy. Each photon has a characteristic energy level, which correlates to its color. Blue or violet photons have higher energy then green, yellow, orange, or red photons, which in turn have more energy than infrared, microwave, or radio photons. Ultraviolet photons (and x-rays and gamma rays) have more energy than blue photons. If a chemical compound has a particular arrangement of its electrons that has a characteristic energy level that exactly matches a photon that encounters this compound in space/time, the photon can be absorbed. This means its energy goes into the chemical compound, and the compound gets excited, and this excitation can result in some work being done. Usually this just means the compound moves around a bit more – it heats up, basically – but in the case of what we call visible light (violet to red, on the energy spectrum), it can slightly rearrange chemical bonds, changing the shape of (for example) one of the pigments in a cone or rod cell in your retina. And that shape change stimulates a nerve impulse, telling your brain that (for example) a blue photon just went through your eye.

Infrared light is too weak to rearrange this bond, so we can’t see it, but we can perceive the heat energy that it can transfer. Ultraviolet light also does not rearrange bonds in the proper way – in fact it can break them altogether, or cause other undesirable chemical reactions, which is why ultraviolet light and X-rays and gamma rays are dangerous, even though we can’t see them.

Examples of absorption spectra of different pigments found in plants and algae, over a color spectrum showing the colors of the different wavelengths of light. The height of each peak relates to the probability that a photon of that color will be absorbed by the pigment.

But what are pigments, chemically? The particular arrangements of electrons that result in color in chemical compounds can be found in several different types of compounds: metal coordination complexes, organometallic compounds, and organic compounds. You probably already know that metals play important roles in pigments, but in pure metallic form, metals are generally shiny and reflective and don’t have much if any color. However, ions of metals are very reactive, and play important roles in biochemistry and geochemistry, and can in many cases make for brilliant colors. In some cases the color itself plays an important role.

Coordination complexes are individual metal atoms, in a particular ionic state, that are surrounded by other ions or molecules in a characteristic arrangement. The ionization state of the metal atom and the number and kind of the molecules bound to it all control the absorption properties of the complex, so the same metal can give rise to many different dramatic colors. The following table shows some examples of coordination complexes of iron (in two different ionization states), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), aluminum (Al), and chromium (Cr). Many of these colors are found in familiar pigments.

Example of some coordination complexes that can occur in natural or artificial pigments. Via Wikipedia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coordination_complex

Coordination complexes often occur in natural minerals. Natural ‘earth’ pigments from mineral soils have red and brown colors that most often come from oxidized iron (Fe3+) complexed with water (H2O) or hydroxides (OH) yielding different shades depending on the exact combination of waters and/or hydroxides. These kinds of colors can be quite stable, which is why they have been used for over ten thousand years as pigments for painting and dyeing.

Organometallic compounds are a bit fancier but they rarely make good pigments because they are unstable and break down easily, resulting in disappointingly gray colors. They consist of a metal ion that has been chelated (bound up) by an organic molecule. A famous example of this is chlorophyll, in which a ring of carbon and nitrogen atoms surrounds a magnesium ion. Chlorophyll famously has two strong absorption bands in the red and the blue (see above figure), giving rise to the green color of plants.

The chemical structure of chlorophyll a. The part of the structure highlighted in red is the porphyrin ring, which also occurs in

Another famous example of an organometallic compound is heme, which the red-colored part of the oxygen-carrying protein in blood called hemoglobin. Heme consists of the same ring (red in the chlorophyll figure) only with an iron instead of a magnesium ion at the center. Both chlorophyll a and hemoglobin have amazing biological roles. Chlorophyll a molecules, when they absorb light energy in the blue or red wavebands, can ionize – give up an electron – the first step in photosynthesis. Hemoglobin, of course, selectively grabs onto oxygen molecules when they are abundant and gives them up when they are rare, making it the transporter of oxygen from your lungs to the far-flung parts of your body that need it. Unfortunately, organometals, while they are the spiffiest of biological pigments, do not make good painting colors as a rule.

The last category of pigments are the ones that are purely organic – meaning they consist only of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and hydrogen, no metals. These compounds achieve the same sorts of electronic arrangements as coordination complexes or organometals by conjugating lots of alternating single and double bonds between carbon atoms (don’t worry about this). Some of these are natural products, but many that we use are synthetic, produced in the laboratory or factory to be pigments and dyes. Some familiar pigments are the carotenoids that are found in colorful vegetables (orange in carrots is mostly beta-carotene, an organic compound), and the anthocyanins found in flowers. Indigo, an important pigment and dye, is an organic pigment derived from amino acids – but it can also be produced synthetically. Cochineal crimson, produced by South American bugs, is also an organic compound. The famous Tyrian purple is an indigo derivative produced by a marine snail. Many synthetic pigments, such as alizarin and azo dyes, are organic compounds similar to some natural products. In many cases, however, the natural pigments have different properties because of the presence of natural impurities or precursors or other pigments in the mix.

Some familiar organic pigments found in dyes, such as madder, don’t make good painting pigment powders unless they are treated with other chemicals (such as alum or calcium carbonate from chalk or bone) to make them precipitate into solids. This process results in lake pigments, and one form or another has been used for pigments and for dyeing since prehistory. In modern times lake pigments made from natural products have mostly been replaced by less-fugitive synthetic colors.

Detail of Titian: The Vendramin Family Venerating a Relic of the True Cross (ca 1550-1560).
Titian used rose madder lake in the crimson robes.

You don’t always need this knowledge of physics and chemistry to effectively use pigments in your artwork. However, it is kind of fun to understand some of the background behind the material you use, and some of the information may come in handy at some point. If you have questions, please make a comment and I will respond.

Thank you for joining us as we do Pandemic Projects, meant to keep you energized, curious and learning!